As we all may know, an opportunity to have a meal prepared by a Michelin Star Chef doesn’t come easily. Especially from a 3-stars-chef, the opportunity comes even fewer. Today, therefore, is one of my biggest opportunities to be invited to have high-quality French food by the “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” 3-stars-chef Emmanuel Renaut at La Scala restaurant of The Sukhothai Bangkok hotel.
Chef Emmanuel Renaut comes from France. He started his path to becoming one of the best chefs by joining CFA of Laon program in 1984. After trained in Étouvelles and Paris, he began working at Hôtel Le Lotti. He had worked with the popular Chef Christian Constant from Hôtel de Crillon before he was sounded out by Marc Veyrat, chef of Auberge de l’Eridan restaurant. It took him only 4 years to become a sous-chef before he moved to London to work as a chef of Claridge’s, a famous hotel having British royal family members as guests.
In 1998, Chef Emmanuel Renaut had opened his own restaurant “Flocons de Sel” in a town called Mégève in Haute-Savoie region. He received his first Michelin Star in 2003, the second in 2006, and the third in 2012. The title “Cooking Chef of The Year” he has received in the same year with his latest star. Moreover, he also had received many other awards, namely “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” or Best Craftsmen of France, “Compagnon du Tour de France” or Companion of the Tour de France.
Chef Emmanuel’s specialty is modern French cuisine, decorated delicately in bright colors. Ingredients, chosen from best sources, ensures the best quality with the best taste. To leave a nature taste, smell, and color to be seen is his signature.
Today I have a chance to try a Set Lunch in 6 courses, the signature menu in a supplement, and a glass of wine pairing with these dishes. The wine I have is recommended from Chef Emmanuel himself for the best dining experience. Now, please follow me.
Amuse Bouche from our great chef were serving in 3 different kinds, the first one was a crispy dough sheet filled with sour cream cheese, the next one went to a bite-sized fried dough filled with a slightly sweet milky cream cheese while the last one was a crispy tart with a vegetables and sour salad dressing as a topping. Those three little bites served were both prepare the guest for the meal and offer a glimpse into Chef Emmanuel’s approach to the art of cuisine in a creative way.
Image des Prés et des Jardins
Our lovely starter inspired by a beautiful French garden. Using a thin slice of celery jelly as a crust, this dish constructed of various kinds of garden crops cutting into cubes. This dish goes more special by topped up with small mushroom, minced leek, and a little yellow flower, which our chef always brought with him from his hometown’s garden. This dish has an unusual combination of tastes and textures. A sour from salad dressing, earthy aromas from vegetables together with a fresh touch of all the combinations. What a perfect kick off for our fine dinner?
Fresh Stuffed Morels, Lightly Smoked in Fir Tree Cocotte and Herbs Jus
The next menu is still veggies, a morels mushroom smoked in fir tree cocotte and herbs jus, then filled with a stirred-fried minced mushroom. The smoking process made morels’ texture become more moisture with slightly aroma smell before bursts with sweet and creamy flavors of amaretto sauvignon sauce. This heavy whipped cream sauce made from yolk, butter, and Amaretto, a sweet and almond-flavoured Italian alcohol
Biscuit of Pike, Bouillon of Oignons and Achillée infused with Mélisse
(Supplement 800 THB++)
The next one is a famous signature dish for lunch set feature a Pike fish, a typical of brackish and fresh waters of the Northern Hemisphere. A seasoned up grounded pike fish mold into a square shape fish ball, then warm on a hot pan till its skin get a bit of yellow. A fish ball itself is chewy with a special sense, color up with tapioca pearls boiled in the signature sauce. Before served, the chef will dip this homemade fish ball in sour and salty white cream sauce which will later create a Lobster Bisque alike sense but softer. If you are a seafood lover, this characteristic dish will surely bring back a seaside memory.
Great food always goes with good wine, Zardetto Millesimato Conegliano Valdobbiadene Dry Superiore Prosecco, a fruity sparkling wine is totally a perfect choice for pairing with every dishes above, especially Biscuit of Pike, where the taste of wine can fresh up a taste of fish.
Lobster with Grapefruit, Vegetables Jus, infused with Cerfeuil and Lemon
Next is a pre-main course dish. A lobster is cooked in 2 styles: the body part is mixed with breadcrumbs, then deep-fried to make its shell crispy yet inside still soft, and the claw meat is then chopped and mixed with different spices as another component for a salad. It is served with fresh grapefruit. The plate is decorated with green tea sauce, vegetable juice, lime sauce, and chopped Cerfeuil on top. This menu lets us taste different textures of lobster and its sauces. Furthermore, a fruity smell from grapefruit and parts of vegetable are also there simultaneously.
Our chef recommends white wine “Sancerre Blanc Domaine Vacheron 2014” to pair with this menu. This Full Body wine has a scent of green apple, grapefruit, and fresh flowers. It has a distinguish sweet and sour taste that evolve taste and scent of this menu.
Veal Filet, Mushroom Tart, Coffee Sabayon, Truffles Jus
Veal filet is my main dish. The veal, filled with a thick fat layer, is grilled in a slow-cook style until it turns pink inside. There are 2 sauces for this menu: a salty, brown sauce made from Port Wine and Truffle, and a creamy cream sauce filled with coffee powder and white wine. Chef Emmanuel’s special Potato soufflés are added as a side. It is similar to french fries with no potato filling in the middle. The Veal filet comes with a crispy, sweet mushroom tart with chopped spinach on top.
This menu is paired with “Château Puy-Blanquet St.Émilion Grand Cru 2010” a red wine with blackberry scent from Bordeaux. This wine helps to add up favors without erasing the taste.
Faisselle De Megève Scented with Licorice and Chicory Served
with Seasonal Fruits and Vegetables
Clean your mouth with sticky-chewy cream cheese meringue served with seasonal fruits, then fresh up with asparagus and coriander. A meringue itself is crispy with just a slight of sweet. However, a little sourness from cream cheese and fruits light up this dessert to a good balance. This menu is true refreshment after the main dish.
Smoked Chocolate Tart, Wood Ice Cream
End of our wonderful dinner with standout ice-cream where an aroma water from oak wood was used as key ingredients. A creamy ice-cream served alongside a rich smoke chocolate tart. The filling in a tart has strong chocolate flavor, which is sweet and soft. The highlight of this menu is that it has quite a bit of oak wood smell, thanks to a hefty amount of wooden extract. To me, this might be one of the most memorable menu from tonight.
A sweet dessert wine to complete the meal
The first time visit of 3-Michelin Star Chef Emmanuel Renaut is truly an eye open for us to experience his outstanding cooking style combine of generous, lively, colorful, appealing and modern. From our review, you might expect to visit his original restaurant in France, which, might actually need one month booking in advance. Do not wait too long cos you could have your dinner cooked by a master of French cuisine right here at La Scala, The Sukhothai Hotel Do not miss a chance to try his professional and exceptional unique dishes for this has already become one of our best memorable dining experience ever!.